Shirt fabric types

I’ve been looking into some online tailoirs, and most of them display information about the fabrics, like Single Ply, thread count, weight, etc.

What’s ply, thread count and weight (well, that one is self explanatory) and how do they affect the shirt, the fit and thermal comfort, if they do?

Where to buy/look

Hi I am a student, just starting the college life. I really want to start building an interchangeable wardrobe, I have watched all of Antonio’s videos and read some articles (they are very helpful by the way, keep up the good work). But I still feel like it is to hard to start because i don’t know what type of colors or brands to start with. I would really like some suggestions or guidance towards how to tell the difference in how good of quality the clothing is. Also brands, any particular names I should search for. Just really anyone that can help me out would be great. Sorry, I don’t know if I’m over-exaggerating.

Thank you for anything!

Much appreciation,


How can I keep my collar on my shirt from flaring out?

So my question is how can I keep my collar on my shirt from flaring out? I recently finished school and started a professional job and I find that my collars on my dress shirts don’t want to stay straight; it seems to flare out or stick out sideways. Sometimes, I’ll check on my shirt in the mirror at work and I see that it has an almost rounded shape to it. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Bold Colored Dress Shirts

Hi Antonio, I want to first Thank You for all of your videos and guides which have helped me dress better and I feel much more confident in the way I dress. I wanted to ask you a question also about wearing bold colored shirts. I was told by a few people that wearing a bold colored shirt (dark purple, hot pink, red, blue (in general bright colors) should not be worn with a suit. So how do you casually wear bold colored dress shirts? what would go well with them? what occasion and is it just a good general rule to not wear/buy them at all?

Thank You

Brown stains on nape of the neck on shirt

As the title and tags imply…this problem has prevented me from wearing my nicer dress shirts for a while now…

I have a tendency to get brown stains on the BACK of the collar for my dress shirts…(the backside of my neck aka nape area). Of course, I shower every day and I’m a clean person…but as an African-Canadian…our skin gets ashy if we don’t use lotion on it…so I have a feeling maybe the lotion is what is rubbing off on the neck area…but even when I didn’t care for my lotion as much from before…I don’t know why the stains were still there…and I definitely don’t know what to do about it. I’m not sure if its because I have dark skin that the skin…is just rubbing off on the shirt…as stupid as that sounds…I scrub my neck with an aloofa in the shower daily so my neck can’t be that dirty. I don’t sweat a lot…so I don’t really understand this and how to prevent it because the stains are hard to remove and ruin nicer shirts…especially white and light blue ones.

Sorry if this sounds strange or comes across as a race-specific issue when it may in fact not be. I just couldn’t really word it better in a better way and felt just saying it as I see it would make it easier to get advice than beating around the bush…

There must be a powder, old wives tail, or solution to this. I doubt this only applies to african-canadians/americans…likely any darker skinned man has this problem. Thanks.

To Pocket or Not to Pocket?

Antonio, big fan.

I’m going to have some shirts custom made (Woo).
I guess the purpose behind the shirts are dual in nature:

1) to wear over chinos/slacks/pants to give the ensemble a formal look
2) to (potentially) wear with a suit.

My question pertains to pockets and your thoughts on them. Given the purposes´╗┐ i have for the shirt’s use, should i order them?

Short and overweight – tuck in or untuck shirts?

I am 5’6 and 245. My profile is what kills me – my stomach is low and sticks out quite a bit. Being short makes it so much worse.
I have a hard time finding shirts that fit well but are also the right length. Most shirts I buy end up too long and I look horrible.
I mainly like to wear polos, but the size that fits right otherwise (not tight, doesn’t hug my stomach, sleeve seam doesn’t start too low down my arm) are all too long, I feel.
In a video of yours I watched on youtube (rules on tucking in a shirt), you stated to follow a 2-in or 4-in rule. My shirts always seem to be 4-in or longer down, and being short I have realized that is a bad thing.
So – considering how my stomach protrudes, should I even consider tucking in my shirts? I have button downs that are casual and not dress shirts…sometimes I try tucking them in and checking myself out – I look ridiculous because of my stomach. I DO try sucking my gut in, but that’s just uncomfortable. But I also heard in the video to “own your look”…
So what is your advice for a short man who’s stomach sticks out?

Casual/Hip shirts

I’m just wondering where the more hip style of shirts fit in. The style with the collar that is softer, a couple pockets on the front a few more sewing lines and a design on the back. The bottom of the shirt looks like it’s made be be worn untucked. Are these an immature look, is it ok to wear them as a much younger man? Are they just something you would throw on with jeans? Any input would be appreciated.