Bemburg lining?

When having a “made to measure” suit made, how can you verify if you have Bemburg lining? Is a viscose material for the lining in your suit acceptable? Is anything else acceptable other than the less desireable polyester or silk? Thanks,

Bill

Felt under the collar

I’m not sure what to think about a “made to measure” taylor that doesn’t add felt under the collar of a suit coat. Is it really a necessity or just another detail of a better quality suit? What are your thoughts on the subject? Thanks,

Bill

Just how much polyester can be acceptable in a wool blend suit?

Just how much polyester can be acceptable in a wool blend suit? Some fabric bolts have caught my eye that are 80/20 Wool and Polyester but I am weary about the polyester content. I know that polyester and other man made fabrics lack the breathability that a 100% wool suit has but is a small percent ok? And if so, what is the % amount that you you would not want to exceed of polyester?

Thanks, Bill

Verifying the content of "made to measure" suit fabric

I live in S. Korea and am finding it hard to verify the accurate content of the fabrics that the made to measure taylor shops offer. Some of the swatch books (Samsung Milano)say Wool and Cashmere blend but do not say what percent of each. The same book states that these fabrics are super 180 but the cost doesn’t seem to match up with that level of quality of fabric. I believe this is Korean or China milled fabric. The storekeep only seems to be guessing when he tells me it is 50/50. I really don’t like picking fabric from a book but many of the bolts of fabric in these shops have no trim that depicts the percentages of the contents. How can I know what I am choosing? Burn tests are so similar for Wool and Cashmere. Is there any other way? How can these shops sell this so called premimum fabric at $200 a suit? It just doesn’t seem right! Do you have any guidance?

Bill